News June  2003

by

Cape to Cairo


 
News Index
 

Airlines:

  • Nationwide Air offers new flights making connections between the major game viewing regions of Africa easier than ever.  It is now possible to combine safaris in Kruger,  Botswana, Zambia and Tanzania with unprecedented ease.  Flights include:
    • Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport and Livingstone 
    • Livingstone to Mfuwe (for South Luangwa)
    • Lusaka to Dar es Salaam 
    • Livingstone to Kilimanjoro.
  • British Airways has cancelled all flights to Nairobi but expects to restart in July.  Meanwhile passengers are being flown to Entebbe and then but on Kenya Airways to Nairobi
Botswana 
  • SARS -- The Botswana Govt is being very cautious and conservative about SARS and are making every effort to make sure that the country stays SARS free.  Their SARS policy is changing week by week depending on the status of SARS around the world. For this week, the position in Botswana is that people from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Toronto (not Canada) will be put into quarantine on arrival in Botswana 

  • Anyone arriving in the next week or two from these countries / area should look at alternative destinations for their holiday. If your guests are
    transiting through one of these places that are infected by SARS - but not staying there, it appears that they will not be quarantined. 
    Nurses are on standby at all major points of entry to monitor the situation with immigration officials
Tanzania 
  • Nomad Tanzania - Richard Bonham's famed Sand Rivers Selous has merged with Nomad Safari Guides and Roland Purcell's luxury tented camps at Mahale and Katave to provide a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the best of remote Tanzania luxury camps in underutilized parks.
  • Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, CCAfrica's newest camp has been named by  Conde Nast 2003 Hot List as one of the world's 50 coolest new places to stay!  Manyara Tree Camp  replaces the previous camp Maji Moto.  Because of its position near the Lake, Maji Moto was subject to flooding, and CCAfrica was able to obtain a new location and move the camp.   Also listed among Tatler's 101 Best Hotels and Travel and Leisure's Top 50 Romantic Retreats 

  •  

 
 
News Provided by Safari Camps and Operators
Wilderness Safaris - Botswana
 
Okavango Water Levels Relative to other years, the water in the Okavango is lower than normal.  This is quite surprising as the Zambezi River in contrast is at record levels.  The Zambezi has had the biggest flood for about 40 - and
many of the Caprivian villagers in Namibia have been flooded out of their omes.  Yet, the Okavango and the Zambezi Rivers both have their catchment areas in central Africa, and the Okavango has had low floods.

The people in Maun are not going to be happy with this amount of water.  As our camps are further north and further "upstream" within the Delta, our camps will generally be unaffected by the low flood levels.  It will certainly make getting around the parks / concession a lot easier and we won't be damaging our vehicles as much as we would normally with the high flood waters. 

Duba Plains With the low flood waters, we have to change our mokoro activities at Duba (but nowhere else). The whole focus of Duba is the incredible lion vs.buffalo interaction and we want to concentrate on this. If guests want mokoros, they can enjoy this activity at other camps.  Please note this and change it in your documentation to your guests if they are visiting Duba.

The floodwater arrived towards the end of March, but really pushed in over the last two weeks. We are now cut off from the Paradise area until about September. No worries though, as most of the resident animals from that area have shifted further south to the drier areas, over which we can traverse on our game drives. The most noticeable of these being the Skimmer Pride and the two new male lions. With the onset of winter, the long grass is dropping and the elephants are returning in largenumbers. The buffalo calving has peaked over the last month, much to the  delight of our well-fed and content lions. Seven zebra surprised us with a 24-hour visit before realizing the floodwaters were rising and it was time to head for higher ground. Other special sightings included serval,
bat-eared foxes, aardwolf, a leopard and a couple of pythons. 

April must rank as one of the best lion viewing months Duba has experienced.  The lions were recorded on everyday of the month, averaging 16 lions per day and 73 different pride sightings during the
month. In total 42 lions were located, with only the Old Vumbura pride (7) being absent. This is expected at this time of the year as the Old Vumbura pride relocates to the drier areas further north. The main reason for the
incredible viewing was the regrouping of the Tsaro pride, bringing with them a two-month-old male cub. The last few months had seen the Tsaro pride disband into smaller subgroups, proving more elusive and not needing to prey on the buffalo herd to the same degree that they used to. Many successful kills were witnessed, including 24 buffalo, 1 lechwe, 1 baboon and 3warthog. All were carried out by the Tsaro pride, bar the baboon, 1 warthog
and perhaps 3 buffalo. All except one buffalo were daytime kills. The Tsaro pride tactics at this time of year are to stampede the herd and separate out any injured, sick or young animals. With the floodwater rising, the shallow
channels offered perfect obstacles for the lions to take advantage of the calving buffalo herd. 
One sighting saw the buffalo get the upper hand as a new born calf struggled to its feet for the first time, only to have two lionesses zero in on it. The mother and calf were left at the back of the herd and appeared to be a
sure thing for the ever-present lions. Courageously, a lone bull buffaloreturned upon hearing the bellow of the calf's mother. Between the mother and bull, they successful managed to escort the calf back to the safety of
the herd. "A very happy and satisfactory ending to what could have been avery sad termination of a new and innocent life", so commented some very relieved guests.

The Pantry pride has moved back into the camp island, resulting in more regular sightings. The pride seems to be fairing a lot better, often seen with full bellies. The cubs are now 18 months old, remaining very playful,
often enticing the adult femals into a hilarious game of chasing each other all over the place. From what we witnessed, they sure need all the practice they can get before they take on any buffalo. The best Pantry pride sighting involved the entire pride setting off after two buffalo bulls at sunset. Just as the buffalo reached the water in front of camp, one of the lionesses managed to leap onto the buffalos back. This slowed the buffalo down
sufficiently for the rest of the pride to jump aboard and force the buffalo down. Quite amazing to watch the fearless cubs taking part in the hunt. As we enjoyed our sunset drinks watching the lions feed, the Duba Boys decided toenter the fray. This they did very peacefully, no doubt due to the immense respect shown by the lionesses as they nuzzled up to rub head tohead with the two Boys. Dinner at camp that night was regularly interruptedby the snarls and growls that erupted as the buffalo was reduced to skin andbones.

Linyanti  The grass is rapidly disappearing and we can here the termites chewing away in the nights. The water in the Linyanti River is getting lower and lower as the days go by, and the elephants are starting to stream in. The Acrotomes and Vernonias have finished flowering and there are fewer butterflies around.  The nights and early mornings are getting chilly and the clouds seem to have disappeared towards the end of May. The mopane pans are all rapidly drying up and the game is starting to move in towards the river side.

On the 18th of April one of the Chobe Boys (lions) was still seen at the giraffe carcass, gnawing on the rotting remains. On the 9th of May we witnessed one of the Chobe Boys mating with presumably one of the Kings Pool
lionesses). On the 18th of May we found the 2 boys sleeping near the turnaround point at Kings Pool Airstrip. They paid no attention to us and carried on sleeping even though there were planes landing nearby - typical
lions - just lying around. On the night of the 20th we found the two Chobe Boys walking along the river road towards LTC. Just prior to seeing them we had bumped into a breeding herd of buffalo in the riverine ahead of them.  The two boys  looked thin and hungry and we were expecting that something may happen when the lions found the buffalo, but as things happened the lions carefully avoided the buffalos and carried on their way. Whilst
waiting for the lions to pitch up at the buffalos we sat for a while with the lights off at the buffalos and stared at the African night sky, while listening to the buffalos chewing and moo-ing all around us - What an awesome evening.

Unlike last month, this month we have seen many buffalos. Almost every day se have come across either breeding herds or "dagha boys". We have also bumped into a few on the walks that we have taken. Just adding that bit of
excitement and reminding us to move around very carefully, listening often, reminding us that Africa can be a dangerous place.

The elephants are definitely piling in and in the afternoons, in particular, we are seeing numerous come down to the water to drink. We often see  elephants whilst on the canoes and have had a few cross the river right in
front us. It is amazing how big they look when you are so close to the water level. On one canoe trip we saw over 70 elephants come down to drink. The elephants often swim across the lagoon in front of camp, just showing the
tops of their heads, trunks and backs. 

The leopards have given us a great show all this month. On the night of the 18th of April we heard the baboons barking loudly near camp. I took the Land Rover out while the guests were all having supper and discovered a female right near the managers tent. We tried to gather all the guests on the other vehicle, but by the time they managed to get themselves together and ready it had disappeared into thick bush and we could not find it again. On the 27th of April we were out early in the morning when we noticed that many impala were staring in one direction. Upon looking round I surprised a young  female who ran away. Later on in the evening before coming to camp we made a turn back to that place in the hopes of finding her again, and got lucky. Whilst following her she led us to a site where there were two other leopards. It was a mother and her two subadult cubs at an impala kill. While we were watching them a hyena pitched up and managed to steal the kill, which the leopards had left on the ground. The next morning we came back to the spot, without really any hopes of finding the leopards again when we came across the young male, cornered up in a mopane tree with the hyena at the bottom. The young female was also in the nearby vicinity. On the 30th we again saw the LTC mother nearby camp. She was calling constantly (presumably to find her youngsters). 

The Wild dogs have also been good to us this month. There are 2 distinct packs which move through the area. One pack consists of between 14 and 16 dogs, while the other consists of 6 or 7. The pack with 14-16 we assume is the same pack that frequents the Duma Tau area. The other we have named the Linyanti Pack. 

We have had 3 sightings of Sitatunga this month. Twice from the canoes and once from a vehicle. On the 22nd of May we were out on the canoes when I saw the ear of a female sitatunga pearing out from the papyrus beds. We approached carefully and she then came out into the open giving us great views and even allowing some of the guests to get photos of her. She was extremely relaxed and then slowly made her way into the papyrus beds. We were all very excited at the views she had given us.

 
Robin Pope Safaris
 
Sounds of Africa Guiding For those who are interested in all depths of the bush, time with Derek Solomon will give you an amazing insight into the sounds. Derek has been a specialist guide for many years. He is a birding expert who has published a number of birding books. He has recently introduced a new activity in Zambia's Luangwa Valley, i.e. "Sounds of Africa Safaris" using sophisticated sound equipment to enhance guests appreciation of the environment. Up to six guests are able to link headphones into the equipment and listen to the sounds whilst Derek relates this to the behaviour of the many birds, animals or other wildlife. His next major task in a study of underwater communication in hippos together with a USA based researcher, and once again guest are able to listen to the myriad of underwater sounds from not only hippos but fish and crustaceans via the hydrophone. 

If you wish to book a tour with Derek please call us.

General News We have had a super week here with some extraordinary sights.

Firstly, Zebron and Paul had to take a vehicle around from the park to Nkwali after the guests were boated across in time for early sundowners, on the way back they saw an Aardvark - yes really and no guests to witness the event but amazing nonetheless.

Another first was an Albino Fly Catcher which was spotted on more than one occasion in and around the camp at Nkwali. There has been some debate as to its type but we seem to have settled on a Bluegrey.

On the birding front an even more amazing sight was that of 2 Greater Flamingoes who have settled on the banks of the river opposite Nkwali Bar. 

Yes really..... I was quite excited to see them as I had not seen any before but did not realise the magnitude of the event. Apparently we do not have Flamingoes in this part of the world and they are therefore "lost". The last time any were seen in the area was about 15 years ago. They have now been with us for about 5 days and we hope they will stay at little longer. They really are the most graceful birds and a pleasure to sit and watch.

Breakfast time has been a wonderful time for cats of late. At Nkwali guests were treated to 5 lions, lying around on the bank just down from camp and stayed for several hours. At Nsefu - happily opened on Saturday of this week, Ed heard baboons making a racket on the first morning with guests in camp and suggested that they pop to the termite mound by the bar for a look see. Low and behold a leopard walked out onto the "beach" just in front of them. A great start to their season. It is good to have Nsefu open and welcoming guests again. Tena Tena will also open in the next few days and Daudi, Ross and Aniek are now putting the final touches in place and the camp is looking great - or so I am told. I am hoping to go up next weekend to see my old place and will let you know how it looks. Shanie and Jo have been working hard with the refurbishment of the tents and bar and by all accounts it is going to be fabulous.

Another big event for the coming week is the return of Jeffrey. Yes Mr Reservations himself is paying us a visit. Jeffers is on a familiarisation trip to Botswana and Malawi and is calling in for a week to visit old friends and have a few farewell parties. Unfortunately as Jeffrey left us during the rains, most of this friends were not in the valley so this is going to be a fun few days - I will report all that is fit for print...

Simon took 2 guests up to the Bangweulu Swamps this week. A short trip for just one night but they had a super time. The sight of thousands of antelope is something that will always stay with them with lots of Black Lechwe and Tsessebe. The main event was of course the Shoebill and they had a very close sighting so they were very lucky and pleased on their return. Simon also reports 3 new birds for him, being the Greenheaded Sunbird, Blackbacked Barbet and the Longtoed Plover.

Aniek and Kate have both settled in and are now part of the team. It is amazing how quickly they have picked everything up and it now feels as it they have both been here for ever. Aniek has not been to Africa before and so Shanie sent them both off on a game drive the day after they arrived. Can you believe it - first ever game drive (for Aniek at least) and they see wild dog chasing after baboons and then a leopard within the space of a few hundred metres - excellent start for them both.

 

CCAfrica
 
Phinda
  • CC Africa's exhilarating Walking Safaris at Phinda and Ngala Private Game Reserves will reopen on 1 March 2003! These four-day/three-night walking adventures, accommodated in four spacious en suite tents, offer an extremely up-close-and-personal experience of the African bush - a definite "must do" for any itinerary. 
  • Rhino Darting Safaris for 2003 at Phinda Private Game Reserve have been scheduled as follows: 11 - 14 May; 15 - 18 June; 20 - 23 July; 17 - 20 August. 
 
Kwando Safaris
 
For the 6th consecutive year a well known pack of wild dogs have decided to set up home about 7 km from Kwando's Lagoon camp. Since 1997, the experienced Kwando Safaris trackers have managed to locate the den sites of this pack of wild dogs (which size averages about 16 individuals).Each year  the competition amongst our guides and trackers to be the first to locate the den site is intense.

Not only is this a first in Botswana in terms of locating the den site(s) for 6 years in a row, but also there are a number of other secrets that the Kwando guides are revealing about these fascinating animals, their behaviour, and unique social system. Never before has it been recorded that one female, the alpha female, can remain dominant so consistently, and give birth and raise an average of over 10 pups per year, and a total of 59 to date!

Besides viewing the interesting behaviour associated with the den, hunting wild dogs have allowed our guests to witness some unique experiences in the last 5 years. They have hunted and interacted with some interesting species - from leopard to the shy pangolin. The antics of the puppies around the den site leave our guests enthralled.

In terms of pure game drive excitement, and the most dramatic visual display of animal behavior, the wild dogs are by far the most interesting of the African predators. During this breeding phase, all the dogs return to the den site each day. Therefore the morning and afternoon game drives with the dogs are almost guaranteed.
 

 

Wilderness Safaris - Namibia 
 
Skeleton Coast After an absence of more than a decade, a small pride of lions has made its way back to the Hoarusib River  in the Skeleton Coast Park of Namibia .  It caused concern among the local community at Purros.  On  their way through to the Park, the pride killed the stud bull of one of the headman of the
community.

The previous pride of lions to inhabit this region could be described as exceptional.  They were lions that covered a vast area, roamed the coastline and fed off Cape Fur seals and beached whales.  They however also moved
inland, crossing the boundry of the Skeleton Coast Park and killed cattle. They were all exterminated by herdsmen in the late 1980's.

According to Dr. Flip Stander, head of Lion Research at the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, the four lions that entered the area of the Hoarusib in July 2001 are vagrant members of the Damaraland pride that lives
in the region of the Aob and Barati rivers to the south. These lions, three males and one female, were driven out by the dominant Aob and Barati lions after they reached adulthood and became possible contenders
in the dominance hierarchy.  They walked two hundred kilometers north north west to reach the Hoarusib River.  While still in Damaraland two of the males and one of the females were fitted with radio collars by Dr. Stander.

The lion sightings by Wilderness Safari guides have become more and more frequent.  These lions are far from habituated, sometimes it takes half a day of tracking with a vehicle and on foot to catch find them.  The
sightings of the three males are by far the most frequent.  They are in exceptional condition, with blond and red manes.  One is considerably bigger than the other two and seems to be dominant and definitely more aggressive.

 


 
 
 
 
Cape To Cairo:  African Business and Adventure Travel
2761 Unicorn Ln NW, Washington DC 20015
Tel (202) 244 5954 Fax (202) 244 5993
 (800) 356-4433
home: www.capecairo.com / safari@capecairo.com